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2005.10.16

涸沢~奥穂高岳 山行記録

10/11-12 晴れ 1日目:上高地-徳沢-横尾-涸沢(小屋泊) 2日目:涸沢-奥穂高岳-涸沢-横尾-上高地 


秋になると思い出す。

どの本を見ても、カレンダーでも、TVでも。


紅葉 といえば 涸沢!! ってなくらい秋の憧れ・涸沢カール。登山暦3年目の私としてはそろそろ本気の紅葉が見たい。涸沢デビューしたい。もちろん奥穂も登りたい。
ということで、いつになく今回は時期を狙って涸沢に行ってきました。

いつになく、といえば今回はもうひとつの事情が。涸沢の山小屋でアルバイトをしている友人がおりまして、その彼に会いに行こう!というのも今回の大きな目的の一つでした。

さて、実は上高地も初めての私。どんな山旅が待っているでしょうか?!

※長文です。ご注意ください。

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1日目。

上高地はマイカー規制がしかれているため、沢渡(さわんど)もしくは平湯からバス・タクシーを利用しなくてはなりません。
今回は沢渡の駐車場に車をおいて出発しました。(駐車場は¥500/日でした。)
今更ですが、念のため。


上高地に着いたのが8:00くらい。なんだかんだと準備して、小屋の友達に「これから行くよ~」と連絡してから出発です。

0003-2
てか、どんだけリゾートなんですかココは。さすが上高地。建物とかすごいです。ややおのぼりさん状態で歩き始める。




8:40 上高地


上高地から横尾までは遊歩道のようなひたすら平坦な道が続きます。荷物は重いがノンビリ景色を見ながらGO!

0007-2
あ!!あれが有名な河童橋!!
今日は平日ということもあり、そこまで混んでなかった。

0006-2
梓川。すでに絵になる景色ですね。

このあたりは観光気分の軽装の人もたっくさん歩いています。テント装備のザックはある意味目立つかも。




10:25 徳沢園


0014-2
お!ここが有名な徳沢園!!
とってもノンビリできそうな場所ですね。私たちもしばしお菓子休憩。

で。再びテクテク歩く。てくてく。景色がいいのでまだ楽しく歩けるけど・・・




11:35 横尾


ふぅ~。やっとここまでたどり着きました。正直最後の方は飽きてきた(笑
このあたりまでくるとさすがに観光気分の人も少なくなってきます。

0019-2

立派な橋で梓川を渡ると、いよいよ山歩きっぽくなってきましたよ~。
屏風岩を見上げながら、回り込むように進んでいきます。
横尾から1時間ほどすると本谷橋。これを渡ると岩ゴロの登りにさしかかります。周囲には立派な岩壁がそびえたっています。

0032-2
だんだんカールが近づいてきます。やや黄色っぽいけど紅葉もイイ感じ♪

紅葉の木々に囲まれた美しい登山道を進んでいくといよいよ涸沢です。




14:25 涸沢


0042-2
ウォ!!これが憧れの涸沢か!!

このころにはちょっと曇ってきてしまいましたが・・・念願の涸沢到着ですヽ(´ー`)ノ 今日はテントの数もまばらです。まさにカールの底にテント場があるんですね~。
私たちもテントを張ってひと休み・・・でしたが。小屋の友達の好意により、結局は小屋泊まりをさせてもらいました。テントは完全に無駄ボッカになっちゃったよ、トホホ。

このときはやや紅葉のピークを過ぎた頃だったようです。体育の日の3連休に降った雨のせいで紅葉が散ってしまったのだとか。
また、小屋の方の話では「これぞ涸沢の紅葉!」といえるような出来は10年に1度くらいしかないそうで、残念ながら今年はイマイチだったそうです。
・・・最高の紅葉ってどんなのなんでしょうね~また老後の楽しみが増えました(笑


無事友達とも再会を果たし、楽しい一夜を過ごしました。
明日の天気予報は『爽やかな陽気』。(ってどんなのだ?!)いよいよ奥穂へ登頂です。


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2日目。 快晴。

なんじゃ~!!やばいよこれ。バカっ晴れじゃないっすか!!!!
ってくらい快晴を予感させる朝を迎えました。このところ山に行く度すっきりしない天気が続いていたので、今回は久々の大ヒットかも~(・∀・)人(・∀・)

でも。。。

実は今回。涸沢到着と同時に山オンナ的体調不良に陥り、奥穂に登るか結構迷いました。周りはやめとけって言うし、それもそうなんですけど。。。やはりあの晴天・目の前の山には勝てず。

『勇気ある撤退』
 

これこそ 言うは易し 行うは難し です。とりあえず自分的にはOKだったので、決行と相成りました!




6:45 涸沢


今回は友人も奥穂に付き合ってくれるということで、3人での出発になりました。
小屋の裏手から早速岩ゴロの道がはじまります。

0067-2
空の色、ヤバイでしょ?後ろに見えるのは涸沢槍。似てますね~。

岩ゴロは高度が上がるにつれ、徐々に大きな岩になっていきます。やがて左にトラバースするようにカールを横切ると、急斜の岩場にとりつきます。

0077-2
こんなところを登ってゆく。
鎖や梯子などがあるザイデングラードの核心部をどんどん登ります。混雑している時は要注意。この日はあまり人もいなかったので、いいペースで登れました。


振り返ってみれば・・


0076-2
どどーんと常念岳が!!表銀座コースの山がくっきり♪




8:15 穂高岳山荘


0078-2
これまた立派な小屋ですね~。

なんだかあっという間に着いちゃいました。思ったより快調かも~♪
っつーことで、軽く休憩の後に奥穂の頂上をめざします!!

0079-2
小屋の左手からいきなりの直登。梯子のお出迎え。久々の岩場鎖場にちょっとワクワク♪このあたりは風が強くて寒かった。強風のときは相当つらそうです。

完全な岩山をよじ登る。日陰の岩肌が超冷たくって指が凍りそうでした(笑 グローブがあってよかった。きつい登りが続きます。
岩に集中して登っているうちに・・・




8:55 奥穂高岳


0085-2
やった~゚・*:.。. .。.:*・゜

見渡せばそこには!

0086-2
槍ヶ岳が!


0084-2
憧れのジャンダルムが!


0089-2
雲海の向こうには富士山が!


0087-2
夏に登った北アの山々が!


私の写真では到底伝えられませんが、それはそれはもう。

山やっててヨカッタ

そう思える大パノラマが広がっていました。本当に最高でした。
とにかく槍が近い!北アがデカイ!
中央アルプスの山もすぐそこに。南アも見えちゃった♪
そして眼下には上高地帝国ホテルの赤い屋根が小さく確認できます。
40分ほどじっくり山頂を堪能した後、来た道を戻ります。ホントは吊り尾根行きたかったな~。

山頂直下で雷鳥の群れ(!)を発見。3人でカメラ小僧のように後をついてまわったけど、全然動じてない!さすが奥穂、雷鳥も堂々としていました(笑




9:00 穂高岳山荘


無事戻ってきました。といいたいところですが、実はここまでの下りで相棒Yがコケまして・・・下りは慎重に!!なのでココから先はちょっとゆっくりペースで下山しました。

0100-2
小屋がずいぶん小さく見えますね。じっくり下ります。浮き石に用心して。

小屋が近づいてくるあたりはナナカマドが真っ赤に色づいてとてもきれいでした。

0107-2




11:40 涸沢


まだまだ晴天は続きます。小屋でお昼ご飯を食べたらとうとう涸沢ともお別れです。小屋の方々には非常にお世話になりました。ありがとうございました。
小屋では小屋閉めの準備が着々とすすめられていました。もう今年の営業も残りわずか。涸沢の秋も終わりです。

友人もこの日に下山する用事があるという事で、またまた3人で下ります。パノラマコースという選択もありますが、今回は諸事情により横尾経由で上高地まで戻る事に。

13:00頃涸沢を後にしました。今度は春、残雪の季節にまた来よう!


0110-2

紅葉の中を下ります。さすがに奥穂往復の後の下りは脚にくる。無駄ボッカのテント装備も肩にキク。ふぇ~上高地まで気が遠くなりそうです~。




14:00 本谷橋


帰りは上高地から沢渡に戻るバスの時間も忘れてはいけません。最終バス(18:00くらい?)を逃すと上高地に閉じ込められちゃう~!




14:50 横尾


ここからまた、例の平坦な道が待っています。とにかくここからのダラダラ歩きは予想以上につらいです。はっきりいってうざいです。
とヤラレ気味の私&コケて負傷のYのために、友人が愛の手をさしのべてくれました。新村橋のあたりから小屋用トラックで上高地まで一気にパス。(反則技炸裂です。)

帰りはトラックの荷台で揺られながら無事上高地に戻ってくることが出来ました。

16:30くらいの沢渡行きのバス(¥1000)に乗って上高地を後にする。これにて今回の山は終了~。めでたしめでたし。
※帰りのバスは10分間隔くらいで運行していました。平湯行きのほうが最終の時間が早いようなので事前に確認してくださいね。





涸沢・奥穂高岳 総評:

涸沢イイトコ一度はおいで♪ と昔の人が言ったかどうか知りませんが、ほんとに素晴らしくすてきな場所でした。上高地から涸沢まで小屋も充実しているため、多少のことには対応できるような気がします。。。財布の紐を緩めれば(笑

今回の山行はあくまで涸沢がメインだったためこのようなプランになりましたが、ほかにも魅力的なコースにあふれる場所ですので、できれば前穂経由だったり、岳沢経由だったり、もっといろいろなルートを攻めてみるもよし。

1泊2日で奥穂に登る場合は、できれば初日に穂高岳山荘まで登ったほうが時間的にも体力的にも楽な気がします。特に2日目の行動時間が長くなるうえ、上高地のタイムリミットがあるし。。
もしくは2泊3日くらいでのんびりじっくり行ったほうがいいかもしれない。次はもっとのんびり過ごしたいです。

あまり詳しくは書きませんが、下りが大得意の相棒Yが奥穂からの下りでこけました。幸い大怪我にはなりませんでしたが、いったん転ぶと止まりません。ぜひぜひご注意を!!
あと。体調は万全で臨みましょう。山は逃げません。>自分

あとはまた思い出したら追記します。
なんか今回は友達山行のため、わけのわからんレポになっていまいました。すいません。
超長文にお付き合いいただきありがとうございました。

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コメント

奥穂からの眺めは抜群でしたね。
横尾からの行程は、ほんとにかったるいです。あせって歩くけど、なかなか着かない。その分有り難味も大きいのかも。
あれで、いまいちの紅葉なんですね。山小屋の人達がうらやましい。

投稿: Kojikoji | 2005.10.16 14:26

TiCAさま
Y氏その後、如何?aftercareが大切ですよ!
大事にしてあげてください。
さて 涸沢の紅葉キット貴女の時の方が
盛りだったみたい感じがします。
私の時は平日なのに人が多く、すれ違いに難儀しましたが、
静かにたっぷり、且つVIP待遇で良いこと尽くめの涸沢debutでよかったですね。時季を変え、又、何回も行ってください。なにせ若いんだから…
越後新潟、晴なれど、ジィ~ジは自宅。。。


投稿: 輝ジィ~ジ | 2005.10.16 14:33

素晴らしいお天気でしたね。
今年は紅葉がすごいというから行きたかったのですが、最高ではなかったのですか・・
いつだったかものすごい時があって、そのときも行けなかったのですが、いったいどんな感じになってしまうのだろう?
最高でもイマイチでも来年こそは!

相棒さんお大事にしてくださいね。
お互いこれからも気をつけて山に行きましょ!

投稿: sanae | 2005.10.16 14:57

わたしも今日はお家でネットをお散歩。
涸沢、奥穂、初めてだったとは以外でしたが
天気がよくてうらやましい〜。
相棒さんの怪我、大事に至らなくてよかったですね。

投稿: ビスタ〜リ | 2005.10.16 15:02

今日はみなさんおとなしくしているようで(笑
早速コメントありがとうございます。

>Kojikojiさま
こんにちは~。TBもありがとうございます。
あの横尾までがなかったらヒュ~と行っちゃうんですけどね。まぁ景色が素晴らしいので我慢します。
あとで私からもトラバらせていただきますね。よろしくお願いします★


>輝ジィ~ジさま
またまたTBしていただきありがとうござます。早速レポ拝見しましたよ~。北穂で1泊も良さそうですね!
新潟は晴れですか、こちらは小雨が降っています。しかもついさっき地震があった!!!


>sanaeさま
何十年と涸沢で紅葉を過ごしている方のお話ですから、本当に10年に1度くらいしか見れない紅葉があるんでしょうね~。すごいらしいです。もうちょっと紅い木々が多かったらきれいだっただろうな~。ベストシーズンを狙うのは難しいですね。
来年こそ狙ってください!


>ビスタ~リさま
あら、珍しくおとなしくしてるんですか?!私も今日は会社でネット散歩です(笑
相棒の怪我、しばらく山はおやすみになりそうです~。ほんとは明日からまた連休だったんですけど山は無理っぽい。
健康第一なので私ものんびり過ごします^^

投稿: TiCA | 2005.10.16 16:39

はじめまして、お邪魔します。
今年の涸沢の紅葉でもイマイチとは、絶頂時はどんな涸沢なんでしょうね。
上高地-横尾間のダラダラはほんとにかったるくて嫌ですね。横尾辺りからラフティングがやれればいいのにといつも思ってしまいます。小屋用トラックとは反則技でもうらやましいです(笑)

投稿: ボッカ | 2005.10.16 17:11

あらら、タフな相棒がお怪我とは・・・お大事に。

奥穂、天気が良くてよかったですね-。
秘密のルートって何処なんだろう?????ザイデングラードは
登ったこと無いですが文句なくポピュラーだと思うし。。。
来年は紅葉の涸沢、狙います!<キッパリ>

超VIP待遇(特にお燗と軽トラ)はズルイっす!・・・ウソ、僻みです(笑

投稿: まろん | 2005.10.16 21:56

紅葉が綺麗ですね。
日帰り山歩き歴2ヶ月の私には全てが素晴らしく見えますヽ(´ー`)ノ

投稿: T@ka | 2005.10.17 00:36

涸沢~奥穂間、なかなかのペースですな。
相棒さん、コケちゃったんですか・・・
あーゆうトコロでコケると、ヘタすると死んじゃいますよねぇ。アブネ。
しかし、ズルはいけませんよズルは 笑

投稿: はまじ | 2005.10.17 15:45

お返事、ありがとうございました。
涸沢レポート、良かったです。写真もいいですね。
天気予報を見て今しかないと、12日の昼から急遽一人で行ってしまいました。(^^ゞ
9末の3連休に穂高を縦走してるので、今回はお気に入りの徳沢園泊まりの、横尾経由で登ってパノラマコースを下るという紅葉目的だけの山行でしたが、十分楽しめました。
でも写真見てたら、1日違いでTiCAさんのほうが幾分紅葉が綺麗なような気が…。
そうそう、パノラマコースの屏風の頭からの大パノラマも最高でしたよ~。

投稿: hana | 2005.10.18 00:26

素晴らしい紅葉でしたね。
今年はイマイチなんてとんでもない。「涸沢の紅葉ってこんなに素敵なんだ!!!」と写真を見て一人で感動していました。TiCAさんがうらやましいです。
まだ行ったことがない、紅葉の涸沢。憧れ度がますます増えてしまいました。
来年まで待つのがつらいな~。

投稿: YOSHI!! | 2005.10.18 21:45

数日留守にしていたためお返事遅れました。コメントありがとうございます。

>ボッカさま
初めまして。コメント&TBありがとうございました。
横尾からのラフティング、私も考えましたよ~(笑 川を下っていけたらラクだし楽しそうだし。夏なら最高ですよね♪
あとで私もTBさせていただこうと思います。これからもよろしくお願いします!


>まろんさま
こんにちは。来年はぜひぜひ狙っちゃってください!
超VIP待遇は・・・ウフフ、うらやましがってくださいな~(笑 軽トラはマジで大助かりでした。友達サマサマです、ほんと。


あ~仕事。。。お返事のちほど続きます。

投稿: TiCA | 2005.10.20 13:47

お返事の続き。

>T@kaさま
お久しぶりです。涸沢までなら比較的歩きやすい道だと思いますよ~。ぜひいつか行ってみてください。
日帰りでも紅葉が楽しめる山、きっとたくさんあると思います。これからの季節は空気が澄んでいて遠くまで展望ばっちりなので、気持ちの良い山歩きが出来ると思いますよ♪またコメントお待ちしていますね~。


>はまじさま
こんにちは。
ほんとヘタしたら死んでる所でした。。無事で帰ってきてこそ【山】ですからね~はまじさんはクライミングとかするんですよね?お互い怪我には気をつけたいものです。。
ズルは・・・正直に告白したから見逃してください(笑


>hanaさま
こんにちは&お帰りなさい!
涸沢に行かれたんですね、しかもお一人とは!スゴイです~。涸沢だけでも十分楽しめますよね。パノラマコース、みなさんおすすめみたいなので私もいつか行かなくちゃ。
これからもブログ覗きにきて下さいね~^^


>YOSHI!さま
お久しぶりです!
イマイチ、といってもそこは涸沢。涸沢初心者の私にとっては十分美しい紅葉でしたよ♪ぜひぜひ一度狙ってみてください。混雑は覚悟ですが、それでも行く価値あると思いますよ~。
またコメントお待ちしていますね☆

投稿: TiCA | 2005.10.20 18:02

うわ~、憧れの奥穂…。

うちの会社からキレイに見える山が穂高連峰だと知ったのが、実は今年の春でして…(汗)。
それ以来、「いつか、かならずっ!」と心に誓った山なんです。
来年の秋には、涸沢の紅葉デビューくらいはできたらいいなと思っています。

お天気にも恵まれて、ステキな紅葉が見れてよかったですね!
憧れの奥穂を、疑似体験チックに拝見させてもらいました~。

TiCAさんのブログ、ブックマークさせてもらいますね♪

投稿: そら | 2005.10.21 00:52

そらさん、コメントありがとうございます。
会社から穂高が見えるとは・・なんとうらやましい環境でしょう!!登るのはもちろん、遠くから眺めても絵になる山ですよね~^^
ぜひ来年はデビューしてくださいね!
ブックマークしていただいてうれしいです♪これからもよろしくお願いしますね~。

投稿: TiCA | 2005.10.21 12:03

いい天気に恵まれてよかったですね^^Y。
素晴らしい眺めも懐かしいです。私事ですが穂高は息子が付き合ってくれた最後の山です・・・「もう山には行かない!」と言われてしまいました^^;。涸沢岳を登る後姿にヒヤヒヤしながらでしたがいつか思い出してくれると思っています・・・?

投稿: 赤ワイン | 2005.10.27 21:28

赤ワインさん、ちょこっとお久しぶりです^^
息子さんと一緒に山とは素敵ですね♪
でもなぜでしょう、知りあいのオジサマもやはりお子さんは「もう山は行かない」だそうです。オジサマいわく、小さい頃の雨天の山歩きの思い出が山キライにさせたんじゃないか・・ということですが。。
この時は本当にお天気に恵まれ、最高の山行になりました。赤ワインさんの息子さんもいつか山の良さを思い出してくれたらいいですね♪

投稿: TiCA | 2005.10.28 00:13

 こんにちは。久しぶりに奥穂の山頂の様子を見ることができました。何回も奥穂には登っているのですが、一番印象に残っているのは、'98年の正月に登頂した時のことです。夏とは違う、白銀の山々と強風、そして、遠くに浮かぶ白い富士山はとてもきれいでした。

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kengoさん、こんにちは。お返事遅くなりました。
お正月の奥穂ってスゴイですね!どんな世界なのか・・・あの山頂からの大パノラマがすべて雪景色だとしたら、大感動してしまいそうです。
kengoさんのような厳冬期の山は私には無理ですが、今年は低山の雪山歩きが楽しめればと思っています^^

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この記事へのトラックバック一覧です: 涸沢~奥穂高岳 山行記録:

» 涸沢 山行 [コジコジ山策日記]
上高地へ 2005/10/08(土) 9:00 松本駅にてY嬢をピックアップしました。このときは、綺麗な青空が覗いていたのですが・・・。 よろしければ、ポチとしてね [続きを読む]

受信: 2005.10.16 14:27

» 山行記録 涸沢&北穂高 前編 [じぃ~じの風の吹くまま]
紅葉便りの聞かれる時期になったのに、どうもスッキリした天気にならない。そこ [続きを読む]

受信: 2005.10.16 14:44

» 涸沢へ その3 [Gendarme@outdoorな休日]
次の日の朝、目を覚ますとまだあたりは真っ暗だった。 時計を見ると4:50。 もぞもぞとテントの外に出て、空を見上げると変わらず満天の星空。 やはり星があまりにもたくさんありすぎてメジャーな正座もわかり難いぐらいだった。 寒かったがしばらく天体観測! 山で飲...... [続きを読む]

受信: 2005.10.16 17:00

» 北穂高+奥穂高+前穂高/北アルプス ~ 【Vol.1】 大人気ですね [海男、日本百名山に挑戦 !]
2007年9月22日~24日 穂高岳 (ほだかだけ、3,190m) 天候: ほぼガス。 3日目眺望が開けました。 ルート: 1日目: 上高地~徳沢~横尾~涸沢ヒュッテ *テント泊 2日目: 涸沢~穂高岳山荘~涸沢岳~北穂高岳~涸沢岳~穂高岳山荘 *テント泊 3日目: 穂... [続きを読む]

受信: 2007.09.30 15:38

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