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2005.08.16

北アルプス縦走記録・4 雲ノ平



MISSION 4:日本最後ノ秘境ヨリ下界ヘ帰還セヨ


第4日目:8月6日 雲ノ平キャンプ場-祖母岳-薬師峠-太朗平-折立

*第1日目(折立-薬師峠キャンプ場)はコチラ
*第2日目(薬師峠キャンプ場-黒部五郎キャンプ場)はコチラ
*第3日目(黒部五郎キャンプ場-雲ノ平キャンプ場)はコチラ


***************************************

長いようであっという間に4日目・最終日の朝がきました。今朝もいいお天気!さすがに4日目なので食料の分、荷物もだいぶ軽くなりました♪
今日は憧れの雲ノ平を通って折立まで戻ります。




7:45 雲ノ平キャンプ場 出発


今日はもう登る山はナシ。帰るだけだし楽勝でしょ~、てなわけでのんびり出発でしたが・・・。さすが【日本最後の秘境】からの帰路、そんな簡単な道のりではなかったのでした。

まずは雲ノ平山荘に向けて出発。まさに夢見ていた木道歩きが続いていきます。

2375-2
テント場から30分ほどで山荘です。

まるで庭師や芸術家が趣向を凝らして手入れしたような、そんなまさに【庭園】のような素晴らしい景色が広がっています。
私の念願が一つ叶いましたヽ(´ー`)ノ

山荘からすぐ、祖母岳(ばあ岳)への分岐。往復30分程度なので登ってみます。




8:25 祖母岳


2379-2

3000M近い山々にぐるっと囲まれた雲ノ平はまさに【へそ】と呼ぶにふさわしい、ど真ん中を実感させる風景を見ることが出来ます。あの山も。この山も。み~んな山頂に立ったんだ。そう思うとなんだか胸がいっぱい。
言葉もなく、ただただじっと目を凝らすだけです。

やっぱり雲の平については私の駄文では表現できません~。そして写真でもなんかうまく伝わらない。スイマセン。
とにかくため息がでるような、なんとも不思議な風景の中を木道が続いています。非常に楽しい山歩きができますよ~♪

2380-2




9:05 アラスカ庭園


2383-2
名前の由来は良くわかりません・・・。けどとにかくいいんですっ!

やがて木道の終点へ。雲ノ平って、この木道がなかったらかなり歩きづらいんだろうなぁ。
木道が終われば薬師沢へ向かう下りがはじまる。

・・・・・。まずは写真をご覧あれ。

2384-2
こんな感じの岩ゴロゴロの下りなんですが。これがもう、滑るのなんのって!苔がむした湿気のある岩なので、本当に気が抜けない下りなのです。

まさに天国と地獄。

結構急なので、両手両足を使って慎重に下る。こんなところまで来てケガしたくないもん。この道、下りもいやだけど上りもかなりきつそうでした。すれ違う人はみな疲れきっていた。。。今回4日間でもっともイヤな個所でした。しかも樹林帯に入るから暑い!汗だくです。

すっかり疲れきってうんざりしながらもひたすらひたすら下りつづけます。最後に長い梯子を下るとようやく薬師沢小屋へ。




11:00 薬師沢小屋


2385-2

向こう岸に小屋が見えたときはマジでうれしかった~。
が。小屋に行くには吊り橋が。

2386-2
両端ガラ空き!そんなに高さはないけどやっぱりちょっと怖いよコレ。

最後にスリルを味わえば、やっと小屋に到着です。ここの川、ものすっごくきれいでした。釣り人天国だな。
しばし休憩した後、太郎平に向けて出発。

薬師沢から太郎平まで、しばらくはまたまた木道歩きになります。アップダウンもほとんどないのでさくさく歩く。だんだん懐かしい薬師岳が大きくなってきます。

3回ほど橋を渡ってからしばらくすると、太郎平への最後の登り。そこをクリアすればまた太郎平まで木道になります。ここまでくればこっちのもん!

2389-2
懐かしき太郎平へもどってきた~!!




13:30 太郎平小屋


4つの山を越え、再びこの地にもどってくることができました。最後の休憩をとる。やっぱりこの小屋は大混雑でした。
ほっと一息ついているうちに、なんだか雲行きが怪しくなってきたぞ?!薬師岳もすっかり雲の中。なんとなくいや~な予感が・・・雨が降らないうちに下らねば!ということでとうとう最後の下りにとりかかります。

14:05 折立に向けて下山開始。

2391-2
・・・このガスりっぷりはやばいかも・・・




14:35 五光岩ベンチ


ポツポツ・・・。あ~もうだめかも。

やっぱり雨が降り出した。

今回は粘らずにさっさと雨具装着。遠くで雷も聞こえるし、こりゃ早く下らなくちゃ!!
ということで、ここからはなかば必死の勢いでラストスパート。幸い雨はさほど激しく降らなかったのですが・・・。




15:25 三角点


だんだん雷の音が大きくなってきた・・・。ん~なんでこうなるのかなぁ。
ここもさっさとスルーです。

三角点を過ぎ、樹林帯に入った頃から本格的な雨。滑らないように気をつけながら、私の中ではかなり頑張ってちゃっちゃと下りました。

確か4日前の初日。
ここを汗をかきつつ登っていた時に考えていた事。

(´-`).。oO( 無事4山登ってからこの道を帰るとき、どんなに感動して下っている事だろう )

そんな風に思っていたのに・・・もちろんしみじみする余裕ナシ!
4日前?!そんなの覚えてねーよってくらいに一心不乱で下りました。時々かなり近くで雷の音がする。こわいよ~。




16:15 折立 登山口


最後はかなりあっさりしておりますが、とにかく無事に帰ってきました!汗&雨でぐっしょりくたくたですが、何はともあれ帰ってきたのです!

MISSION COMPLETE!!!我々は最終MISSIONを達成した!

山行記録もこんなに長くなりましたが、そのくらい思い出もいっぱい!私の3年間の登山暦の中でもっとも充実した山行ができました。

◆Special Thanks to seaさん◆


*************************************

北アルプス縦走 総評:

何度もいいますが、今回はテント泊3泊4日のプランだったためかなり不安でした。が、実際行ってみると、今回のルートは全体的に歩きやすい道が多く、体力に自信があれば比較的チャレンジしやすい縦走な気がしました。
3泊4日を4泊以上に。テント泊を小屋泊まりにすることでだいぶ楽になるのでは。。あと、いい間隔で山小屋があるので、イザという時の水・食料補給も可能かもしれません。
4日間という日数では、4日間とも晴天が続くのはほとんどないかもしれないですね。悪天候(特にこの時期は雷)に対する心構えも忘れずに。小屋で最新情報をGET!です。

とにかく見所だらけのコースで、北アルプスの良さを超実感できる場所でした。やっぱり南より北かな~?! 百名山ねらいとしては大変効率の良い山行ができました。


よくやった自分!

*あくまで私見です。私のレポートを見ていただいて、「行ってみたい」とか「懐かしい」とか思っていただけたら本望でゴザイマス。もちろん実際に山に行くときには《自己責任》において準備・行動していただければと思います。言うまでもないですけど。

長文にお付き合いくださりありがとうございました。

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登山」カテゴリの記事

コメント

庭園の名前の由来は! 伊藤新道って、登山道があるんですけど(今は知ってる人しか通れない)、この道を作った、
伊藤さんが、勝手に?つけたらしいですよ。 雲の平山荘の人が、言ってました。 散歩する時に、スイス行ってきますとか、ギリシャいってきま~っす、って感じで言ってるそうです。でも、なんでスイスなのか、ギリシャなのか、
わからないって言ってました。 ちなみに、この伊藤さんの
本出てますよ。

投稿: sea | 2005.08.17 00:24

seaさん、こんにちは。
雲ノ平の名前って、良くわかんないけど雰囲気は伝わりますよね~。そうそう、おかげさまでようやくレポ完成しました。seaさんとほぼ同じルートになりましたが、1ヶ月くらい違うと景色も変わるんでしょうね。
私は次の山の予定がないのでなんだかず~っと山に行っていない気がします(笑
これからもよろしくお願いしますね★ 

投稿: TiCA | 2005.08.17 10:59

20㎏の荷を背負い、4日間感動の連続の様子、良く伝わってきます。マジに素晴らしい体験だと思います。ジィ~ジも10年位前、黒部川の本当の1滴?を求めて、相方と2人で行った時、日本庭園から雪田越しに見える、三俣小屋と槍ヶ岳に、甚く感激を味わったことを思い出しました。

投稿: 輝ジィ~ジ | 2005.08.17 12:25

輝ジィ~ジ さん、こんにちは。
今回は長編だったので、かなりいい加減な部分の多いレポートになってしまいました。。最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございました。
山の思い出って、感動した場面はもちろんですが、その山がきつかったり大変だったときほど鮮明に覚えていますよね~。今回の山行は、きっと私の一生忘れられない経験になると思います。もっと歳をとってから再訪したとき、今度は何を感じるでしょうか。。山はいいですね。

投稿: TiCA | 2005.08.17 15:34

記録を読んでいたらまた行きたい病が
発症しております。
私も去年晴天の中、縦走したので
黒部源流エリアは忘れられない地になっています。
ホント4日間お天気がよくてよかったね〜!
TiCAさんが立ち去った後の北アは・・・!!
あああ、私も夏休みをもう少し早く取ればよかったなー。

投稿: ビスタ〜リ | 2005.08.17 20:08

雲ノ平、やっぱりいいですね!!懐かしく読ませていただきました。ジツは、私が今のダンナと2人きりで初めて行った山が雲ノ平だったんです。今から10年近く前のことです。
彼氏だったとはいえ、男の子の2人きりの初めての山行が3泊4日だったとは、今思えばむちゃくちゃやなって感じですが、そのときに買ったテント・ランタンなどは今も大切に使っています。
そんな思い出深いトコロですが、、、ダンナ曰く二度と行きたくないところNo.1は「薬師沢から雲ノ平への登り」だそうです。。。雲ノ平は何度でも行きたいんですけど、あの登り、下っても厄介なんですね(笑)

投稿: しげぞう | 2005.08.18 01:57

>ビスタ〜リ サマ

こんにちは。今回の山行では黒部五郎だけがガスって展望ナシだったので、絶対もう一度行きたいと思ってます。そう簡単に再訪できる場所じゃないのがイタイ(笑
4日目の雷雨がビスタ〜リさんに受け継がれたんですね~。。ほんとお疲れ様でした。レポート楽しみにしてます^^

>しげぞう サマ

こんにちは。2人きりの初デートならぬ初山行ですか、雲ノ平とはいいセンスですね(笑 あの薬師沢~雲ノ平の道ですが、私もダンナ様に賛成です!上りもつらそうだけど下りも相当厄介でしたよ!あそこはもう行かなくていいや。
しげぞうさんのレポートもまたじっくり拝見させていただきますね~。

投稿: TiCA | 2005.08.18 13:25

TiCAさん、お疲れ様でした。
懐かしい風景、私たちの時悪天候で見られなかった展望、楽しませていただきました。
北は一挙に百名山歩けるし、ゴージャスメニューで行く甲斐がありますよね。
私たちは3年前に剣から笠までまとめてやってしまいました。もう大変だったのなんのって・・・二度とできまへんわ、そんなこと。
でも今回TiCAさんが歩いたコースはまたいつか行って見たいと思っています。今度は小屋どまりで楽~にね。
今年の北はお天気が不安定でしたね。
これで何座になりました?
私はあと3つ!のんびりいきます(^-^;

さて次はいずこへ?

投稿: sanae | 2005.08.23 17:33

sanaeさん、お帰りなさい。
剣から笠って・・・まとめすぎですよ~(笑 さすがです。
sanaeさんはあと3つですか!そこまでくるとどんな気分なんだろう・・私は只今60座です。まだまだ道のりは長いです。
sanaeさんの北海道のレポ拝見しましたよ~。ほんとにパワフルですね♪またsanaeさんのブログにお邪魔します。

投稿: TiCA | 2005.08.23 22:25

ブログとやらいうものに初めて書き込む気になった退役軍人です。はじめまして。
いまから44年前雲ノ平へ行ったことを思い出しました。自分の辿ったルートをすっかり忘れていましたが、御文読んで、それが、折立から入って薬師岳→雲ノ平→鷲羽岳→三俣蓮華岳→槍ヶ岳→上高地だったことを思い出しました。薬師沢からの登りの悪路のことなど全く覚えておらず、ただただ庭園の美しさと峰々の連なりだけが脳裏に蘇ってきます。大丈夫です。何10年もたてば、いやなことは全部忘れます。

投稿: 退役軍人 | 2009.11.01 03:46

どうも、東京の山好きなものです。いいレポートありがとうございます。実は、私も雲ノ平に憧れてましたが、せっかくいくなら4座行きたいなーということで全く同じ工程で行こうかと画策しておりましたが、同じルートを行かれた報告や本は無く、思案しておりました。
見事のレポートのため、この夏、チャレンジする決心がつきました。負けないような旅にしてきますね。

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